

February 2022
Guatemala
Central America

Trip Summary
12 Days Total
Arrival Flight: American Airlines Toronto to Guatemala City
Flores, Guatemala | 3 days
Transfer Bus: GuateGo Flores, Guatemala to Tikal, Guatemala
Tikal, Guatemala | 1 day
Transfer Bus: GuateGo Tikal, Guatemala to Belize City, Belize
Transfer Ferry: Belize Water Taxi Belize City to Caye Caulker
Caye Caulker, Belize | 3 days
Transfer Ferry: Belize Water Taxi Caye Caulker to Belize City
Transfer Flight: TAG Airlines Belize City to Guatemala City
Transfer Car: Rental from Fox Guatemala City to Antigua
Antigua, Guatemala | 3 days
Transfer Car: Rental from Fox Antigua to Lake Atitlan
Lake Atitlan, Guatemala | 2 days
Departure Flight: American Airlines Guatemala City to Toronto
Our trip to Central America was 12 days total, with the majority spent in Guatemala and a weekend spent on Caye Caulker in Belize. We loved both Guatemala and Belize and will return to both in the future. Our itinerary was close to perfect (if I do say so myself) - here is a video outline of the intinerary and here is what you should do if you go:
DAY 00
GUATEMALA
CITY
City
Guatemala City is the major airport for international flights coming into Guatemala. We flew with American Airlines from Toronto to Guatemala City and had a layover in Dallas on the way. The flight was short and easy and we landed in Guatemala City in the early evening. We were catching an overnight bus at 9pm that same evening, so we had a short time to explore what Guatemala City had to offer. From the research I had done online, I had reach some concerning articles surrounding the safety of Guatemala City, so I didn't plan for any extra time to spend there. Since we were only there for a few hours, it is hard for me to confirm or deny the safety precautions I had heard, but I will say we had a great time for the few hours we spent there and were happy with the rest of the itinerary and stops on the list. From the airport, take an Uber (it was suggested online to take Ubers over cabs for safety and to ensure a fixed price) to Plaza Fontabella which is a high-end shopping center I found on Google Maps. You can explore the mall and try a delightful cheese fondue dinner from Kloster, and then continue on your way to the bus stop to catch your bus.
The overnight bus is from Guatemala City to Flores, which is an island town in northern Guatemala. The bus was booked with GuateGo online before our trip for about $50 per person. It is possible to fly from Guatemala City to Flores as well for about $200 per person if you prefer, but we enjoyed the bus just fine. The chairs were comfortable - you can book a "semi-bed" cabin with large reclining chairs - and the ride was fairly painless. I would recommend buying extra water and a blanket to bring with you on your journey, though. You should also be aware of the possibility of military stops where the military will stop the bus with large guns and ask all the passengers to disembark, check your ID cards, and then re-board the bus. This was somewhat frightening at first, but it was a regular check and nothing to be worried about.
DAY 01 + 02
FLORES
Romance
When we arrived in Flores we were greeted by hotel staff at the bus station and transferred to our hotel which was just about 20 mins away from Flores island, which is the main area for tourists. We had a wonderful stay at the Las Lagunas Boutique Hotel in Flores for 2 nights. We booked the Romance Package at Las Lagunas to "splurge" for our first few nights which included a master suite, a 45 min sunset boat tour with wine and cheese, a romantic five-course dinner for two with candles and private service, breakfast in the room a la carte, and a tour of their person monkey island. It was amazing and the food and service were top notch, but if I were to do it again I wouldn't book the Romance Package. The monkey island tour is free for all guests, as is breakfast, and we found the night with the wine and cheese boat tour and then 5 course dinner to be wayyy too much food (and wine...). We are happy with just a one course dinner and a glass of wine. If you really wanted, you could book a regular room, and then purchase a wine tour separate from dinner and still been under the total cost of the Romance Package - for a more happy medium. That being said, the whole property of Las Lagunas is stunning, so you would have an amazing time there no matter what package you choose. There were bikes and kayaks available for guests to use, a nature hike with live animals (almost a mini zoo) to visit with on the property, and the aforementioned cool monkey island tour where the hotel staff take you on a short boat ride to a neighboring island with resident monkeys who love to hop on the boat and say hi. Also, it is a smaller thing, but you will love the orange juice at Las Lagunas - so fresh and delicious!

DAY 03
FLORES
Explore
From Las Lagunas after checkout, you can catch a ride back to Flores island and check in to your new hotel there. We stayed at Hotel Casa Amelia and it was fine for one night. The room was quite plain but clean enough. There is no AC but you can open the window at night and the view from the window in the morning over the lake is beautiful. The location was great right on Flores island across from the water and close by a ton of other restaurants and bars. While on Flores island I would suggest eating at Restaurante Raices which had a yummy lemonade with soda (which was blended like a slushie!), great tacos, and a great burger. It is also right on the water and you can watch fish and turtles swim in the water below you as you eat. Dona Goya has a great breakfast - you can sit on the top deck for a nice view of the water, and Skybar is a cool rooftop bar with good drink deals for Happy Hour and a beautiful view of the sunset. One thing to note about Guatemala in general as well is they speak predominantly Spanish. Of course this may seem obvious but we have been spoiled in our past travels to countries without English as the first language because they always seem to speak English anyways! But not here. At least, not everywhere here. There were many bars, restaurants, and hotels that had menus, instructions, or staff that speak in Spanish only. So, my advice would be to brush up on your Spanish before you go, or make sure to have Google Translate handy.
I would suggest to plan for just one full day on Flores island. With the island being quite small one day is enough time to explore the entire island, and its surroundings. You can start with walking around the island itself, which takes about 15 mins from end to end, and a little longer if you want to explore the different side streets and shops in between. After exploring the majority of the island itself, you may be ready to expand your exploration to the waters surrounding Flores. There are many longtail-type boats available for hire to explore the lake and surrounding area - they all just float in the water along the side of Flores and you can go up to one and bargain a price for your destination when you are ready to go. I would suggest to go to a nearby rope swing spot called Jorge's rope swing, a hike to a viewpoint called El Mirador Del Ray Canek hike, and to the local animal sanctuary which was across the lake. These three stops and a ride home should cost about 50Q for the boat and driver which translates to about $10 CAD for the day. You can start with Jorge's rope swing which is so much fun and a highly recommended stop. It was free to visit and there were multiple rope swings at different heights into the lake, along with a small bar serving cool (not cold, but cool) drinks and a few small snacks. You just tell your boat driver how long you plan to spend here, and he will leave and come back to pick you up at the agreed upon time. We stayed here for 2 hours and that was a perfect amount of time. This was the best stop of the three, so it would be best to spend the most time here.You can then continue on then to the hike, it is in the San Miguel area which is just a few mins by boat from Jorge's. The hike is short and sweet with just a 10 min walk up a semi-steep hill to the viewpoint. While we were there the tower was under construction so it was a little lack luster, but it was interesting to do and a little exercise never hurt anybody. Lastly, if it interests you, you can visit the ARCAS animal sanctuary. Again, like everything in Flores it is fairly small and old, but very reasonably priced. We had a good time here and spent about 40 mins visiting with the animals. We saw a few big cats, some crocodiles, turtles, birds and lots of friendly monkeys. There is a larger, slightly more expensive zoo called the Petencito Zoo close by as well if you feel like seeing more animals.

DAY 04
TIKAL
Ruins
This morning, hop on another pre-booked GuateGo bus, this time taking you from Flores to Tikal. This is a short 2 hour bus ride up to Tikal UNESCO World Heritage Site which is an ancient Mayan citadel in the rainforests of northern Guatemala, possible dating back to the 1st century A.D. I would suggest staying over in Tikal for the night so you can spend the entire day exploring and sign up for a sunset tour. We stayed at the Jungle Lodge Hotel while we were there and it was fabulous. The private casitas are spacious and gorgeous, and the property, the pool, and the food were all lovely. Once you drop your luggage at the hotel, go ahead and explore the ruins of Tikal on your own for the afternoon. There is ample signage (in English even!) to be able to find your way around the National Park and learn about the history while you do it. It is a huge park and you can spend endless hours exploring, so make sure to pack some snacks if you don't want to head back to the hotel for lunch. The ruins here are especially interesting since they are in the middle of the Guatemalan jungle and it makes for a wonderful forest hike-type walk as you explore the ancient temples during the afternoon. I would highly recommend booking a sunset tour of the ruins for the night you are there - you can do so at your hotel or any nearby hotel. Ours through the Jungle Lodge was great. It was a perfect length from 3pm-7pm, our guide was very knowledgeable and interesting, and it ended on a private platform overlooking the park for sunset. It is a great way to see areas of the park you aren't able to during the day exploring on your own. You can end your evening with a relaxing dinner at the hotel before your trek to Caye Caulker, Belize the next day.

DAY 05 - 07
CAYE CAULKER
Beach
Belize is Guatemala's neighbor, and after much city, mountain, and ruin exploring you may be ready for some R&R in a beach town like we were. If so, you can take a bus booked with GuateGo from Tikal, Guatemala to Belize City, Belize and then transfer with the Belize Water Taxi Ferry from Belize City to Caye Caulker. There are also flights available, but again they are much more expensive and many include layovers and more complicated routes to get there. Belize City is known to be quite dangerous, for locals and tourists alike, so please be careful when you go. Make sure your transportation will take you right to the ferry, or have a ride pre-booked to pick you up from the bus stop or airport and take you to the ferry to avoid walking the Belize City streets alone. Our bus dropped us off right at the ferry which was perfect. You can pre-book the ferry online at Belize Water Taxi, or you can just hop in line and grab a ticket at the booth when you're there. For more ideas and recommendations on what to do while you are in Belize, check out the Belize section of the blog.
On your last day in Belize, you can get back on the Belize Water Taxi ferry from Caye Caulker to Belize City and then transfer to the Belize City Airport. This can all be pre-booked online and that would be recommendation just for simplicity and safety's sake. You will then hop on your flight from Belize City back to Guatemala City to finish off the last leg of your trip in Southwestern Guatemala.
DAY 08
ANTIGUA
City
When you arrive back in Guatemala City, if you are following our itinerary you will grab an Uber back to the airport to pick up your rental car. There are buses that can take you from Guatemala City to Antigua, but we wanted a little more freedom and enjoy driving in forgein countries, so we decided to rent a car. I would recommend doing the same if you feel up to it. We went with Fox and rented a midsize car. The process of renting a car at the airport in Guatemala City is somewhat as expected - we waited 20 minutes by the Fox desk to have someone call someone who eventually showed up in an unmarked sedan to drive us to the real Fox store about 15 minutes away where we tried to communicate through Google Translate about our reservation, insurance, and the type of car we would like to rent. After a slight struggle, we were in our new car and ready to go. The car itself was also nothing to write home about, with very basic interior, no bluetooth (first world problems) and old, lightly stained cloth seats, but it did the trick and got us to wear we needed to go. We got on the road around 4pm and had about an hour drive to Antigua. The ride was straight forward and easy with mostly highway driving. You may get stopped again by the military who, funny enough, just get out of their car and stand in the middle of the highway and wave you over to the side of the road to pull you over (which happened to us), but again it was a routine stop and fairly painless - we shared our passports and papers from the rental company and were on our way in about 5 minutes.
Once you get to Antigua you can first check in to your hotel - we stayed at the El Carmen Hotel where we would be staying for the next two nights. We loved the El Carmen Hotel and would highly recommend it. It had large, comfortable rooms with working A/C (!!!), an adorable rooftop restaurant for sunsets or breakfast, a cute cafe in the open-air concept, tree-lined lobby, and a perfect central location in walking distance to anything you might need. After you check in, shower, and maybe even organize your luggage, you can head out to see what the town of Antigua had to offer. Here is a video of things to do in Antigua with ratings to check out. The Ruins of Catedral Santiago are just a minute walk from the hotel, so I would suggest to stop by there on your way to dinner at Cactus Antigua. Cactus Antigua has live music and a large selection of delicious tacos and tequila cocktails - with the shrimp and bacon tacos being our two favorites. After dinner, if you have the energy, you can keep walking and explore the Antigua Central Park which is a cool town centre area with a fountain, park benches, and surrounding shops and eateries. I will mention as well, we felt totally safe walking together through the city at night here and saw many other tourists doing the same. A few mins farther up, if you feel like a nightcap, you can stop in at Donde El Gringo (which translates to where are the foreigners). It is a cool spot that has great deals on drinks - $2 for a beer and shot which is the perfect end to your first night in Antigua.
DAY 09
ANTIGUA
Explore
The next morning in Antigua is a perfect time for a short hike up Cerro de la Cruz (Hill of the Cross). It is a simple hike - 0.8km out + back) and was just about a 20 min walk from the hotel. The walk is easy on just a small incline and the viewpoint had a nice view of the city of Antigua with the large cross landmark great for a photo-op. From here, walk back down to the city and continue on to your next must visit photo-op - the Santa Catalina arch. The yellow, picture-perfect Arch built in the 1600s is in the central park of the city, about a 15 minute walk from the base of the hike. It doesn't take long to visit, so once you've snapped your Instagram photos, you can continue on for about 5 mins to the large and exciting Central Market Antigua where you can do some afternoon shopping. Make sure to stop by a booth with fresh fruit to enjoy some fresh pineapple for $0.50 while you shop around. By now you may be hungry for some real lunch, and Ta Cool nearby is a great spot for margaritas and amazing carnitas tacos. The next stop is a ~ 25 minute drive away, so you can head back to your rental car if you have one or hail a taxi. Your destination is Hobbitenango village - a super unique eco-village with several hobbit-style homes and restaurants styled after your favorite fantasy genres where you can be playful and disconnect from the city life. You can choose to stay overnight in on of the hobbit-style homes for the full experience, or just visit for the day and enjoy any of their 26 areas and attractions in the park. It costs 50Q per person to enter (just under $10 CAD) and is quite worth it in my opinion. We had so much fun here for the afternoon exploring the village, taking photos with the giant hand outstretched into seemingly endless valley, playing mini-putt, sitting on a porch swing, axe-throwing, and trying a zip-line type activity that swings you out into the open air. It is a great way to spend an afternoon in Antigua and you will have a lot of fun if you go. When you get back to Antigua there are two more stops you need to hit before your last evening here - Santo Spirito for fantastic, authentic Italian food including homemade bread, cheese, and pasta (the ravioli is to die for), and then Cafe Sky for a great view of the sunset and enjoyable cocktails. Antigua was our favorite stop in Guatemala with a great atmosphere and the best food we had all trip, and the two full days we planned for here was a perfect amount of time.

DAY 10
ANTIGUA
Volcano
One of the most challenging, but most amazing things we have ever done in our travels is hike Volcano Acatenango in Antigua. Here is a video tour of the trip. It is a tough 5+ hour climb up a steep mountain at a high altitude, followed by a cold sleep in a very simple tent on top of the mountain, so make sure you are up for it before you go - though I would highly suggest doing it while you are here. If you are up for it, book it in advance through your hotel. We booked through El Carmen and had a great experience. Wherever you book, make sure they feed you and provide water, as well as carry your items up the mountain for you - including tents and blankets. You can rent a backpack from the tour company before you head up for 75Q, which I would highly suggest doing if you did not bring one. You need to pack or wear good hiking shoes, extra warm clothing (including a jacket, sweater, hats, mittens, and warm socks if you can), snacks, and plenty of water. Even if they provide some, it is likely you find it to be not enough after a long day of hiking. You also need to leave room in your bag to carry your own lunch and dinner up the mountain, so make sure to plan for that. If there are two of you, carrying two backpacks is ideal. There are also locals selling (or renting really) walking sticks at the bottom of the mountain for your climb up. I would recommend grabbing one or two of these as well as it helps with the steeper parts of your hike, as well as on the way down. Take your time going up the mountain, its a marathon not a sprint, and just remember that I promise you the view at the top is worth it. Once you get to the top you will see the active Volcano just across from the peak you are on. The tour company will have already set up tents for you to stay in - if you are a couple remember to request a private tent early to not be stuck in one of the communal tents for larger groups. You may have the option to continue your hike to a peak even closer to the volcano to see the lava erupting at night. We opted out of this extension as it was more money and we were already exhausted from the hike up, never mind the view was already great from here. We hung back and made some friends at base camp while some others continued on. When they arrived back, they were extra exhausted and did share that the view was not much better from where they went - not worth the extra exhaustion - so we felt like we made a good decision and hence, that would be my recommendation to you as well. You will eat dinner with the rest of the hikers and then watch, hear, and feel the rumble on the ground of the bright red lava erupting from the volcano before heading to bed for the night. You are in now for a very cold, very uncomfortable sleep in a tiny ill-equipped tent, but hopefully the stunning memories of the erupting volcano will help you sleep better happy with your decision to hike up for this view. The next morning you will be woken up early by the tour guide with the offer of tea or coffee, and after a quick breakfast and some more photos of the volcano will continue your easier hike down the mountain and then eventually back to Antigua.

DAY 11 + 12
LAKE ATITLAN
Chill
When you reach Antigua again and gather your luggage, it is time to head for the rental car and hop in. You have a 2 hour easy drive to Lake Atitlan, which is your next and final destination. If you are feeling up to it, you can make one of various pit stops (somewhat) on your way such as the Iximché Mayan ruins or the Chichicastenango Market (if it is Thursday or Sunday, since it is only open on these days). I would highly recommend staying at the Selina Atitlan hostel while you are visiting Lake Atitlan. Selina is a worldwide hostel brand known for awesome locations with cool amenities, group activities, and a lot of fun. We got a private room while we were there that was comfortable and beautifully decorated, but they have tons of room options if you are on a budget. The pool and common area are great places to hang out, and the food and drinks were top notch. The Selina hostel is in the town of Panajachel, which is a lively backpacker town that you can spend the evening exploring.
The next day, you can explore the surrounding areas of Lake Atitlan. The Lake has many cool backpacker stops and areas all around it that you can explore by foot, by car, or most efficiently, by boat. There are lots of boat taxis and ferries on the lake you can hire for the day depending on where you want to go. There is a stunning Indian Nose hike you can do nearby for a view of the lake and its surrounding villages. You can hike or boat to the small village of Jaibalto and explore what it has to offer, travel to San Marcos to jump off the water trampoline, or head over to San Pedro which is another lively backpacker central with tons of bars, restaurants, and shops. They are all great stops, and if you have time, I would try to stop by each one for your last day in Guatemala. Once you are done navigating through Lake Atitlan, drive back to Guatemala City where you can drop off your rental car and head to the airport for your flight home. Our flight was early the next morning, so we spent the night at the Hilton Garden Inn Guatemala City, and I would recommend it if you are in the same situation. I hope you have a great trip in Guatemala! It truly is an amazing place to visit with a vast variety of adventure to offer.
